From Budapest to Beograd is a 7 hour train journey, and as we have not had a night journey so far, we thought this would be a good experience. Not so. I heard from travellers, and on the net, that the train is not safe. Because the border crossing takes so long - each traveller's passport has to be checked, and you don't get to the border until about 2 am - the night guard takes your passports so you don't have to be woken up. But apparently this is when unsavoury thieves board the train and creep quietly into your cabin and relieve you of your money, backpacks, handbags etc. while you are sleeping, and while your cabin door is locked from the inside!!
When I went to reserve our tickets, I asked the rail authorities if that was true, (helps to know the language) and they confirmed that the night train was not safe, and advised against it.
Bob volunteered to do another night shift, and barricade the door and kick any unauthorised hand that appeared, but in the end we decided we did not need that kind of worry and hassle and booked the day train. It was amazing to us that the authorities are aware of the "criminals that wait for the train" and do nothing about it! Apparently, the tourists report it to the guard, and they make a report of all the stolen goods when they arrive at the destination, but nobody does anything about it and nobody gets their belongings back!
We purchased a 1st class Eurail ticket for our holiday - and would heartily recommend it - but Serbia is one of the few (only 3) countries in Europe that does not recognise it. As a previously staunch Eastern Block country, they clearly still have some issues: "First Class? There is no First Class in Serbia, we are all equal here!"
Well that may be, but for 7 hours we were literally rattling along in an old grotty rattler that shook every bone in our body. Luckily, we brought food and drinks with us for the journey, as there was no carriage service here. We had the carriage to ourselves for the first 4 hours, but once we were over the border, it was "stopping all stations" and locals came on board. Bob called it "the chicken train" because of the age of it, and he expected some of the locals to bring on all manner of "luggage" but apart from bags of food items in all manner of interesting carry bags, there was no livestock, much to Bob's disappointment. He watches too much TV.
The train was an hour late getting in to Belgrade, so it was a very tired couple that went looking for our hotel in the dark, dragging our suitcases. Finally, we came upon the street our Hotel was on...and my oh my! To say it was steep, is an understatement! It was vertical! My heart sank as I looked up the hill, and couldn't see the hotel that was "just 5 minutes" walk. Over a narrow potholed footpath. In the dark. In the end Bob dragged both cases the last few metres, while I struggled behind praying that the wheels didn't fall off. Literally! We've never been so glad to get to a hotel!
We went up and down that hill several times over the next few days, while we travelled around.
We went on the HoHo Bus, and learned the history of the town and country. They have had many wars over the centuries, and in more recent times.
This is the city where my father grew up, so I have heard stories of the battles and injustices of wars that happened here for many years. The rulers, good and bad (mostly bad), the enemies, the attacks, the politics, were all debated in our house for years by my father and his friends, or anyone else who would listen - while I hoped it didn't have to be me, and made myself scarce at every opportunity.
Being here, however, makes me appreciate how lucky we are in Australia, where we feel safe in our own homes. The people, however, are a happy and friendly bunch, who recognise that their politicians are crooks (?), complain about it, but have learned to live with it. Cost of living is high, earnings are low, and old age pensions lower still, so old people can not manage on their own, and have to be supported by their children. But everyone we spoke to had a cheerful and hopeful disposition that things will gradually improve. And in the meantime, they were continuing to enjoy their lives, meeting their friends for dinner or drinks, movies, shopping and all the things we all do.
They had their MCG's as well, of course, and some impressive old forts to guard their town from enemies.
All their important buildings and monuments were in excellent order, and very pretty. Their city was more contemporary than others, simply because they have been bombed many times and have had to rebuild. They have preserved what they could, and these buildings are much appreciated by the locals as a reminder of their own history.
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| This is one of the ancient look out towers in the walled section protecting the city. |
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This is Parliament House in Beograd.
It is across a busy road from the park and a palace.
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| This is the Palace that Serbian leaders lived in during their office. It is in a lovely park with lots of fountains and statues. |
We had one of our most enjoyable nights here, in the "Bohemian Quarter". This was a long, narrow cobblestoned street that was lined both sides with restaurants! This was where people came to enjoy themselves - and we helped them! Each restaurant had the outdoor tables, several had musicians who serenaded the diners - and those that couldn't afford to eat there, could still sit and enjoy the music from the street. It had such a happy and vibrant atmosphere, you can't help getting caught up with it. The hardest part was choosing a restaurant - they were all serving traditional food - but, unfortunately the one dish we were looking for, was not available because the ingredients were out of season!
We walked the street several times, just for fun, and finally picked a restaurant and had a wonderful meal. All the restaurants had candles or fairy lights, so it was quite dark, so I don't think you will be able to see our photos - but I'll put in a couple anyway. It was such a great night, we wandered the street after our dinner and sat in various places listening to the music.
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| A restaurants in the Bohemian Quarter, they surrounded their restaurant with fresh flowers and then sold them to their customers. |
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| If you can see us, here we are enjoying a traditional Serbian meal, with drinks of course! |
One of the things that first amazed us and then made us laugh every time, was the way in which people park their cars here. Hilarious! If the space is not big enough for your car - get creative, and just jam it in any which way! I would love to try this back home. We only ever saw one parking attendant give tickets out, but we saw them parking all over the city, and worse, as we drove around.
These are a few I caught around our street.
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| Yep, that's the footpath, where people have to go around it. |
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| Can't fit it in ? How about this way? |
And you're not the only one! ! There were worse ones than these, but I didn't have my camera handy.
We got a lot of laughs out of them! :-)
We had a great time here in Beograd, but now it was time to get back down our street to the Station and get on the train again. I don't know if you can see how steep this street was, but I know we won't forget it in a hurry!
Our street - the good side, only a few bad potholes - and everyone parking nicely.
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| Holding onto the cases so they don't roll down the steep hill |
And here I am trying to stop our cases from running down the street, while Bob takes a photo. It was much easier coming down, that's for sure!
We made it safely to the station, and are off to Zagreb, Croatia next.
Till next time...
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